So I made my corset pattern form scratch in spite of having 5+ simplicity corset patterns (it's been my experience that those don't fit unless I alter them substantially). Started with a making a basic bodice pattern that fit correctly, then did the alterations to make a torso pattern, then finally altered that into a basic corset pattern and made a muslin to check fit. Big surprise, it did not fit right. This is why we make muslins. After adjusting the pattern then altering the muslin several times, I finally had my basic corset pattern that fit me and could start making the actual corset.
I'm using a cotton broadcloth that's close to my skin tone for this project. After cutting out the fabric pieces, I also cut out fusible interfacing pieces and am attaching those to the fabric before I sew the pieces together.
So the patterning book I use has some information about the materials needed to make a corset, but defiantly not everything I need to know. The book said that I needed to add padding to the corset where a bra would normally be. It was less than specific as to what type of padding to use. So after some research on bra making and a trip to JoAnn Fabrics, I bought the batting you can see in the picture below. It's meant for quilting and I have no idea if it will work for this project but we will find out.
So you can see that I have the padding pattern pieces pinned to the batting. You might have noticed that there is no seam allowance on these pattern pieces, that's intentional. Having seams would add to much bulk to the corset so the pieces are attached to each other with a zigzag stitch.
Here you can see how I'm zigzag stitching two of the padding pieces together. The edges of the "seam" are next to each other but not over lapping. It's a bit tricky to stitch because you can't really pin the two pieces together and so you have to hold them while you stitch (keeping fingers out of the way of the needle). It went surprisingly well for how fussy it could have been.
Here is the completed "bra" part of the corset. Before attaching the padding to the corset, I trimmed the seams down to 1/8". Then I stitched the padding to the corset along the edge of the padding. I probably should have stitched mine a little closer to the egde, oh well. The stitching does not look so good on the outside of the corset but that's ok for this one because it's going to be under the main garments.
Now I need to add the channels for the boning to the corset. This is actual supposed to go on the right side, but since this is my first corset we're going to call it a "learning experience." The corset pieces are supposed to be stitched wrong side to wrong side, trimmed, then have ribbon or bias tape stitched over the seam to make the boning channel. However, I did all of this right side to right side so all of those steps wound up on the wrong side. I also have a tool to make my own bias tape so that's what I used here.
I've also added a boning channel that's not on top of a seam to add support. I did not make a seam because in the corset for my cosplay I can't have that seem there and I did not feel like having to make several different types of corset patterns right now.
So this is the current state of the corset. I was hopping to have it finished in time for the Brass Ring Academy stampunk event I'm going to tomorrow; however, the boning I ordered will not get here in time so I will be wearing the outfit that does not need it and will continue making the corset later.